The runway was filled with large silhouettes of intense layering and wreaked of radicalism. Raf captured the ethos of iconoclasm with this season. “At the flea market in Vienna, I saw youngsters from the Ukraine or Romania, who simply lay layer by layer and thus create their own volumes because of the cold,” Neue Zürcher Zeitung Undoubtedly influential to current day designers, but mostly ignored by the hoi polloi at its time. This was a massive turn for Raf, as his previous collections consisted of sartorial, slim, finely cut and precisely designed garments which were influenced by upperclass youth. Models were coded in black, grey, olive and muddy colours, completely covered in scarves, outerwear, baggy pants, oversized everything. Held at an abandoned warehouse in Paris, fog machines spewing smoke, Aphex Twin blaring overhead was Raf's most influential and iconic runway: FW01 "Riot! Riot! Riot!", dedicated to isolated hero Richey Edwards from the Manic Street Preachers. As Raf's garments become more and more coveted, only circulating in the tucked away collector's marketplace, it becomes harder to document the pieces that actually hold historical and aesthetic significance as they become harder to come in hand. Raf Simons Fw01 "Riot Riot Riot" Skirted Camo Bomber. The soldiers close in under a yellow moonĨ/10 condition. The hoodies, tees and sweaters were massive and overwhelming, patched with what looks like a collage of Raf's personal visual displays, with the help of peter de potter, of his inspirations and nostalgia. Graphics throughout this season were labeled with cryptic lyrics from The Cure, graphics inspired by the 1982 film "Poltergeist", and even a few references to experimental musician John Cage. FW05 was one of the last displays of such meaning, departing from such endeavors and focusing more so on modernist, sleek cuts inspired by euro subcultures. Raf's display to his connection to music is undoubtedly the primer to his most compelling garments. Despite the runway being absent of the highly sought after graphics for this season, Simons looked to revisit his personal milestones in his past for the two part FW2005 collection. Raf Simons FW05 "History of My World" All Shadows Hoodie. Moto details include adjustable leather waist straps, padded details, zippered pockets and wrist zips. Unique to this season however, a handful of these designs were printed on garments with biker details which were indicative by padded knees, shoulders and zips on limb ends to tuck boots or gloves under. Pants, hoodies, tees and shirts sported graphics of said mascots and logos. The season featured nostalgic motifs from middle America varsity sports and school mascots. The varsity theme is one of the few themes that stays unique to only two years: 20. The 'Man' line typically reintroduces multiple themes and designs from Watanabe's time capsule which borrows or reissues from older seasons - Most common being the "poem" designs which were released in 2001, 2005, 2008/09 and recently. Many forget that Junya Watanabe's "Man" line is unlike his more focused self titled women's which roots original ideas from season to season. Junya Watanabe SS06 "Arkansas Football" Varsity Moto Jacket in Red. Right pocket is blown out and needs repair. At the same time, the collection reflects on the process of growing up and (re)considering adulthood, citing references to childhood dress codes, formal business looks and ghetto rebellion.”Ĭleanly executed crossover of a puffer jacket and moto jacket, which nods to two different functions and styles from two worlds and tailors them harmoniously together. Puffer jacket is structured as a moto jacket and sought to be fitted close to the chest. Linked to the aesthetics of Peter Saville, there are also touches of early Russian Constructivism, Bauhaus and vintage British looks.
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The collection itself focuses on traditional styles and fabrics, augmented by a mod influence. As a long-time admirer of Peter Saville, Raf Simons considers this a great honour, and therefore dedicates his collection to the man who put an unique spin on music culture. Raf Simons made a personal selection of Saville-designed works (some of them previously unseen) to integrate them into his collection.
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“This season, Raf Simons was granted full access to the archives of Peter Saville. Simons’s “Closer” touches base with his roots to music, especially with Joy Division and New Order, with Raf’s Peter Saville admiration spearheading the entire collection. Raf Simons AW03 “Closer” Puffer Down Moto Jacket in a dark navy.
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